St. Helens
Cozy inns, local legends and Hollywood romance take center stage on a weekend trip to St. Helens.
Brian Barker
With more than 60 miles of Columbia River shoreline, forested hills, uncongested blacktop roads and quiet bays, Columbia County, just 30 minutes northwest of Portland, has long been renowned among cyclists, birders, anglers and other nature lovers. But the county’s inviting small towns, like St. Helens, also have plenty to offer visitors who like to pair country-fresh air with plenty of creature comforts.
The scenery provides an enticing backdrop to contemplate the area’s historical significance: Legendary explorers Lewis and Clark camped here in 1805 as part of their journey to the Pacific Ocean (and on the way back in 1806). Today, locals are just as likely to regale you with tales of another notable duo: Edward and Bella of Twilight fame. Portions of the smash-hit vampire saga were filmed in town in 2008.
Plenty more local history waits inside Olde Town’s collection of antique shops. Funky thrift stores like Jilly’s offer enough sequined evening gowns, feathery earrings and wigs, not to mention Twilight souvenirs, to deck out any costume party.
On Thursday nights from June to August, walk to nearby Columbia View Park to dance off meals during 13 Nights on the River, a popular outdoor concert series paired with a farmers’ market and river views.
When the sun finally sets, a visit to St. Helens’ Historic Columbia Theatre provides a nostalgic way to cap the day. Opened in 1928, the lobby is filled with memorabilia from Hollywood’s Golden Age, including photos of MGM actors and an enormous 1930s carbon arc projector on display. The balconied 400-seat cinema is fully modernized, though, with high-definition digital projection, 3-D technology and the latest releases. When the curtain falls, don’t be surprised if the theater, much like the town, leaves you wishing for an encore performance.
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