Self-Guided Tour: Downtown, Northeast and Greater Portland

Downtown/Oregon Convention Center

Begin your tour downtown at Pioneer Courthouse Square and use public transportation to visit most of the sites. Pick up a transit map and day pass at the TriMet office underneath the fountain in Pioneer Courthouse Square (503.962.4848). The day pass can be used on all TriMet buses, the Vintage Trolley and MAX, Portland’s light rail system.

Pioneer Courthouse Square (TriMet buses) map #1
701 S.W. Sixth Ave.
(503.223.1613)
Union StationJust a few vestiges (a wrought iron gate and fence on the eastern edge of the square) remain of the grand Portland Hotel that stood on this site from 1890 to 1951. The hotel’s owner, railroad magnate Henry Villard, hired 75 black hotel workers from North and South Carolina and Georgia to work as waiters, barbers and bellmen. Because their relatively high wages allowed them to buy homes and businesses of their own, these men were the creators of a black middle class in Portland.

Union Station (TriMet buses) map #2
800 N.W. Sixth Ave.
(503.273.4865)
The 1896 train depot was the focal point of the African-American community because so many held jobs as Pullman porters, Red Caps, cooks, waiters and shop laborers. By 1941, about 98 percent of the approximately 2,000 black residents in the city were railroad employees. Until the late 1920s, African-American homes, businesses and churches were clustered around Union Station.

Golden West Hotel (TriMet #77) map #3
717 N.W. Everett St.
(503.274.9815)
Until Oregon’s public accommodations law was passed in 1953, this was the only hotel in Portland catering to African Americans. Built in 1906 for railroad men away from home, it soon became a social center, especially on Sunday afternoons. With the Mt. Olivet Golden West HotelBaptist Church just across the street, the hotel drew churchgoers to its restaurant, billiards room, ice cream parlor and candy shop. There was a thriving saloon, too (though perhaps not after church!). The barber shop was operated from 1913 to1930 by Waldo Bogle, grandfather of former television news anchor and Portland City Commissioner Dick Bogle. Closed during the Depression, the hotel now serves the homeless mentally ill. Interpretive historical displays are on either side of the entrance.

The Dream monument to Martin Luther King Jr.
(eastside MAX to Oregon Convention Center Station; TriMet #6) map #4
Oregon Convention Center
777 N.E. MLK Jr. Blvd.
(503.235.7575)
At the south end of the Oregon Convention Center is a memorial to Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., who received the Nobel Peace Prize in 1964. The brass scene depicting King with a child, a worker and an immigrant, was sculpted by Michael Florin Dente and dedicated August 28, 1998, exactly 35 years after King delivered his “I Have a Dream” speech at the Lincoln Memorial. (see photo)

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Mural by Isaac Shamsud-Din

Upper Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard

Take TriMet bus #6 to reach locations in this area, known as Albina. Until 1891 a separate city, Albina has been the city’s principal African-American neighborhood since the 1930s.

Doris’ Cafe map #5
325 N.E. Russell St.
(503.287.9249)
Doris’ is a community landmark, the place to see and be seen—and on top of all that, a great place to eat. In a pleasing atmosphere of hardwood floors, high ceilings and windows, tie on a bib and enjoy barbecue and a delectable variety of sides. (see Soul Food)

Nike Outlet Store map #6
2650 N.E. MLK Jr. Blvd.
(503.281.5901) Nike opened its first outlet store on MLK in 1984, and continues giving a portion of its profits back to the Albina community. The new store opened in 1999.

Gladys Sims McCoy Memorial Park map #7
2700 N.E. MLK Jr. Blvd.
The life of a dedicated community activist and public servant is commemorated at this public garden. The park was built by the neighboring American State Bank (503.282.2216), the oldest (1969) privately owned African-American bank in Portland. Albina Community Bank, founded in 1995, is at 2002 N.E. MLK Jr. Blvd. (503.287.7537).

Standard Dairy map #8
2808 N.E. MLK Jr. Blvd.
(503.309.7017)
Here is a true business community: the owners of the businesses contained in this copper and green steel-sided complex live in upper-level apartments. The renovated dairy is home to several African-American businesses: Vessels & Co., selling tableware and home accents; Sheba House of Elegance, selling ethnic clothing; World Village/Diana’s Boutique and Home Accent Gallery, selling ethnic clothing and household items; and Brown Sugar & Spice Talent Management, representing talent of ethnic diversity.

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Peninsula Park

North Williams Avenue

Beginning in the 1930s, black community life centered on and around “The Avenue,” Williams Avenue. This was where the action was, for both music and socializing. From about 1943 to 1958 the Avenue was hopping with bebop and jazz clubs. Take TriMet buses #4 and 40 to reach these sites.

Billy Webb Elks Club map #9
6 N. Tillamook St.
(503.249.9872)
Built in 1926 as the “Colored YWCA,” this was where the NAACP and other community organizations held their meetings. A USO club for black servicemen during the war, it’s now an Elks Club named for Billy Webb, whose orchestra of black Elks Club members played on steamships between Portland and California during the 1920s. Visitors may come as guests of members.

Matt Dishman Community Center map #10
77 N.E. Knott St.
(503.823.3165)
This public recreation center has a large swimming pool and boxing gym and is home to the internationally acclaimed Northwest Afrikan American Ballet. The center is named for Matt Dishman, who was the sheriff at Vanport and later a Multnomah County sheriff’s deputy.

Unthank Park map #11
510 N. Shaver
(503.823.2223)
This Portland city park honors the memory of Dr. DeNorval Unthank, who, after facing housing and office discrimination when he opened his medical practice here in 1930, became an ardent activist for civil rights. He co-founded the Portland Urban League and served as president of the Portland chapter of the NAACP.

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"Children of Humanity" mural by Charlotte Lewis

Northeast Alberta Street

Alberta Street is experiencing a renaissance. Galleries, coffeehouses, community organizations and businesses line the street from MLK Jr. Boulevard to 30th Avenue. On the last Thursday of each month about 20 businesses host the “Art on Alberta” walk from 6-9 p.m. This after-hours event features artwork on display, meet-and-greet sessions with the artists, refreshments and music. Ride TriMet bus #72 to Alberta Street, then pick up an Artwalk map from participating galleries or businesses, or log on: artonalberta.com.

“Our Dream” and Matrix Galleries map #12
2209 N.E. Alberta St.
(503.288.3024)
Features contemporary and African-American fine art.

Harry Jackson Plaza and Adidas Retail Inc. map #13
5020 N.E. MLK Jr. Blvd.
(503.249.1676)
The corner plaza honors Portland Police Sgt. Harry Jackson’s efforts to bring pride of place back to the boulevard.

Terrell Brandon’s Barbershop & Tee Bee’s Place map #14
1330 N.E. Alberta St.
(503.460.0348)
It’s the place for haircuts and hip-hop wear.

Roslyn’s Garden Coffee House and Shades of Color Gallery map #15
1438 N.E. Alberta St.
(503.288-8652)
Open bright and early every day but Sunday, Roslyn’s soothes the soul with coffee and art.

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Artwork by Adriene Cruz

Northeast MLK Jr. Boulevard and Killingsworth Street

Look for outstanding art at this corner, considered to be the heart of the African-American community. Noted artist Adriene Cruz, who also designed the street banners along MLK Boulevard, painted the building housing the Northwest Health Center map #16 (5320 N.E. MLK Jr. Blvd.). The building across the street, on the southeast corner, features colorful tiles of mythical creatures created by Baba Wague Diakite, a local artist from Mali. Inside the Northeast Portland Community Police Facility (449 N.E. Emerson St.) is Children of Humanity, a mural painted by the late artist Charlotte Lewis. You can reach this intersection on TriMet bus #6.

The Walnut Park Retail Center, on the southeast corner, is home to a number of popular businesses. There’s also Reflections Coffee & Bookstore map #17, 446 N.E. Killingsworth St. (503.288.6942), with rows of Afro-centric non-fiction books and novels, gifts and cards. The store hosts art exhibits, literary readings and a book club. An open door leads to the delectable smells wafting from Mother Dear’s Tasty Pastries, 438 N.E. Killingsworth (503.287.7655), renowned for its cobblers and pies, especially sweet potato pie.

The Best of All Worlds
424 N.E. Killingsworth St.
(503.460.9070)
Sells ethnic clothing, home décor and gifts.

Geneva’s Shear Perfection Barber & Beauty Salon map #18
(TriMet bus #6)
5601 N.E. MLK Jr. Blvd.
(503.285.1159)
A hair salon, this establishment is considered “local news central.”

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