Self-Guided Tour: Portland, Oregon

Go to map of the Cultural District

Before you begin your walking tour of the Cultural District, use Portland’s “living room” as your focal point. Pioneer Courthouse Square (map #1)is a central plaza used for civic celebrations, concerts, flower shows or as a meeting place for friends. It takes its name from the 1868 Pioneer Courthouse, directly east.

From Pioneer Courthouse Square, walk south on Broadway, using the huge “Portland” sign as your beacon. Lit up at night with 6,000 brilliant bulbs, the sign marks the location of the Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall (map #2), part of the Portland Center for the Performing Arts (PCPA).

The Italian Rococo Revival building, constructed in 1927-28 as an ornate cinema, now is the 2,776-seat home to the Oregon Symphony Orchestra, the Portland Youth Philharmonic, Portland Arts and Lectures and various concerts and presentations.

Across Main Street is the New Theatre Building, built in 1987. It houses the Dolores Winningstad Theatre, an intimate, 290-seat theatre that is home to the Tygres Heart Shakespeare Co. and Tears of Joy Puppet Theatre; the Newmark Theatre (map #3), seating 88, home to Portland Center Stage, a professional equity theatre company; and Brunish Hall, a rehearsal and reception space. The stunning four-story rotunda lobby has a domed skylight festooned with colorful art glass.

The third building of the PCPA is eight blocks southeast of the New Theatre Building. It is the Keller Auditorium (map #4), at Third and Clay. Facing the dramatic waterfall of the Ira Keller Memorial Fountain, the 3,000-seat theatre hosts traveling Broadway productions and local drama, music and dance, including the Oregon Ballet Theatre.

Across Madison Street is the Oregon History Center (map #5). Be sure to look up when you’re at the main entrance, off a courtyard facing the South Park Blocks. The eight-story-high mural was painted in 1989 by Richard Haas on the 1923 building, originally the Sovereign Hotel. The mural’s trompe l’oeil perspective depicts members of the Lewis and Clark expedition. Another mural, on the building’s south side, illustrates the early development of Oregon. The Oregon History Center, established in 1873, has exhibits, photo archives, historical collections and a research library.

If you go directly across the park blocks to the Portland Art Museum (map #6), pause and admire the rose and flower gardens surrounding the statue of Teddy Roosevelt, wearing a Spanish-American war uniform and riding a horse. Its title is Theodore Roosevelt Rough Rider.

The Portland Art Museum, built in 1933, was designed by noted Portland architect Pietro Belluschi. The brick modern-style building was renovated in 1995, in time for the blockbuster “Imperial Tombs of China” exhibit. Since then the museum has been an important stop for numerous other large exhibits. The museum has an impressive collection of its own. A new wing, opened in August 2000, houses its large Native American and Northwest art collection.

Administrative offices for the museum are next door, in what is now known as the North Wing, but originally was the Portland Masonic Temple. The monumental 1927 structure is also home to the Northwest Film Center, the museum’s rental sales gallery, the Portland Youth Philharmonic, Northwest Print Council, Oregon Ballet Theatre and Main Street Theatre. The two buildings are linked by an outdoor sculpture garden, featuring works by Barbara Hepworth and Pierre Auguste Renoir.

The lone statue in the adjacent park block is of Abraham Lincoln. Sculptor George Waters wanted to capture Lincoln’s anguish as the Civil War raged on. The statue is of Lincoln standing, but with bowed head. It was created in 1926 and is maintained by the students of nearby Lincoln High School.

In the park block to the north is what is known as the Shemanski Fountain, named after merchant Joseph Shemanski, who commissioned it in 1926. Made of cast stone, it serves as a pedestal for the dainty bronze statue of Rebecca at the Well. She was the Biblical character who drew water for the camels of Abraham’s servants. Her compassion for animals inspired the three pet-level drinking fountains. There are also three people-level fountains.

Shemanski was not the only Portland businessman who wanted to slake Portlanders’ thirst. Along Salmon Street there is a plaque commemorating Simon Benson, lumberman and philanthropist. Standing before the plaque is a four-bowled, bronze fountain, known as a Benson Bubbler. In 1912 Benson commissioned 20 of the fountains, which he donated to the city. There are currently 60 Benson Bubblers located throughout Portland.

You can see Simon Benson’s house several blocks north, on the Portland State University campus, facing the Park Blocks at Montgomery Street. Originally on a lot facing The Old Church, Benson’s abode was moved in early 2000 to house the offices of the PSU Alumni Association. The two-story, green, Queen Anne-style house was built in 1900 and was the Benson family home until 1912.

Most of the South Park Blocks are closed to traffic on the campus of Portland State University, giving students several peaceful blocks to study in the shade of trees or listen to impromptu concerts and speeches. There are several sculptures in this area, most created by PSU art faculty.

The university’s School of Fine & Performing Arts is an integral part of the Cultural District, with strong partnerships between the school and its neighboring arts institutions. Drama, symphony, jazz and opera performances are given in Lincoln Performance Hall (map #7), in Lincoln Hall (the original Lincoln High School), at Broadway and Market.

At Tenth and Taylor is another jewel of Portland culture, Central Library (map #8). The 1913 Georgian Revival building, designed by A.E. Doyle, was renovated in 1995-97. Now more than ever, the library is a work of art. Climb the grand staircase, at every step reading inspiring words etched within the William Morris-type design on black granite. Another favorite of library patrons is the bronze tree “growing” out of the children’s librarian’s desk, with artifacts of childhood attached to its bark.

The Park Blocks

The original intention of a group of Portland pioneers was to set aside a long promenade park that would traverse the entire town site, from the Willamette River to the base of the West Hills. But their good intentions were only partly realized. The results were the 12 South Park Blocks, from Jackson to Salmon Street, and the six North Park Blocks, from Ankeny to Glisan Street.

The South Park Blocks form the center of Portland’s Cultural District. They were donated to the City in 1852 by Daniel H. Lownsdale and William W. Chapman, who both have downtown squares named for them. Around the same time, numerous lots surrounding the South Park Blocks were deeded to churches and fraternal organizations.

The South Park Blocks then were known as “The Boulevard.” Early photographs show it as a narrow clearing, cutting through the town like a flat ribbon. But in 1877 the City Council authorized the planting of 104 poplar and elm trees. By the turn of the century, homes and churches bordering the park blocks enjoyed the shade of those trees, as they still do.

Historic Churches

Ornate homes and stately buildings have come and gone, but the old churches of downtown Portland seem to be eternal. Built with massive basalt stone, brick or wood, some have served their congregations for more than a century. Their steeples long a familiar part of the skyline, the historic churches are an important part of the city’s cultural life. Inquire at offices to see church interiors.

The oldest of the churches is called, appropriately enough, The Old Church (map #9) (1422 S.W. 11th Ave., at Clay St.; 503.222.2031; www.oldchurch.org). Since it was saved from the wrecker’s ball in 1970, the ornate, gray, 1883 Carpenter Gothic structure has been the site of meetings, performances, weddings and special events.

A few blocks away, on Columbia Street, is the Sixth Church of Christ Scientist (map #10) (1331 S.W. Park Ave.; 503.227.6024). The elaborate, Byzantine/Art Deco exterior brickwork is a product of its times. Built during the Depression in 1932, the brick pattern design was made deliberately intricate so more people would be employed for its construction.

Next door, on Jefferson Street, is St. James Lutheran Church (map #11) (1315 S.W. Park Ave.; 503.227.2439), with its castle-like stone tower. The Gothic Revival structure dates from 1910, though the 1891 Pioneer Chapel is still standing and contained within the church.

Across the Park Blocks is First Christian Church (map #12) (Disciples of Christ) (office, 1315 S.W. Broadway; 503.228.9211), on Columbia Street. The church has been on this site since 1890, with the current structure dating from 1922. It has a brick exterior embellished with cream-colored glazed terra cotta, a semi-circular red brick stairway and Doric portico columns facing the street corner. The church has an extraordinary collection of Povey stained glass windows. (See Povey Glass.)

Two blocks north is First Congregational United Church of Christ (map #13) (1126 S.W. Park Ave.; 503.228.7219), at Madison Street. The stone building with the dramatic 175-foot, cream-and-red-latticed bell tower was dedicated in 1895. In Venetian Gothic style, it was modeled after Boston’s Old South Church.

Further west, on Twelfth Street, are three other historic churches. First Unitarian Church (1011 S.W. 12 Ave.; 503.228.6389; www.firstunitarianportland.org) at Main Street, was built in 1924. First Baptist Church (909 S.W. 11 Ave.; 503.228.7465) at Taylor Street, was built in 1894. First Presbyterian Church (1220 S.W. Alder St.; 503.228.7331; www.fpcpdx.org), at Alder Street, was built in 1890.

Map of the Cultural District

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